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It is noon and the summer sun is scorching down on the narrow alleys of Deira’s Spice Souq, a relic of Dubai’s early history. The jumble-mumble of streets packed with shops on either side are heaving with the aromatic smell of spices.

Inside a box-sized shop chock-full of sacks of ebony-black pearls of pepper, golden-yellow turmeric powder, purple-tinted dried rose buds, and chocolate brown cinnamon sticks, Qamar Shahzad is busy catering to a bunch of European visitors who look eager to trace the lanes back to Dubai’s modest past and its rich spice trade.